I just landed in the little town of Etna CA. I had thought about skipping over it but so many hikers raved about it. I am not sure what they liked but I really needed a break. When I left Seiad Valley a few days ago I thought the section to Etna would be a stroll. Wrong. Started with a 6 mile road walk. Those are never fun. Then a 5400 ft climb. My legs were noodles after the climb. Then a lot of up and down on the ridge and winding through mtns. I worked really hard to get 25 miles. At the end of the day I arrived at a spring to find it dry. For the next hour I worked on getting water, with success. During the last hour of hiking I noticed bear footprints on the trail. Then during the night I had 3 visits from bears. Didn’t really make for a good night of rest.
This morning the air was clear! It was wonderful to get views. For weeks now I have climbed many mountains only to look out and see smoke. The air stayed clear most of the day. I’m really hoping this is a trend. Besides not seeing the views, or the sky for that matter, I’m pretty sure that breathing smoke 24/7 is not doing me any good.
There is less and less water on trail as the springs dry up. And there are many fewer north bound hikers. Those that will finish are already in Oregon and Washington.
Mando 
So good to hear news from you. So sad about all the fires; glad to see you were wearing a mask, and glad that you are finally out of that area! Air and water – the main ingredients for life, and you are being challenged on both fronts, not to mention the mountains and the miles and the bears…… May you grow and learn and be all you can through this and know that (for now) clean air and unlimited fresh water (and hard cider) await you along with your crazy fan club here in Asheville. Love, luck and strength, Amigo.
Your encouragement is so meaningful to me. Thank you! Looking forward to enjoying some cider and cool fall air with you soon!
I so admire your strength and tenacity.